Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator

This is a small, portable set, designed for those aiming at look improvement. The Bio-Stimulator provides muscles' stimulation and invigoration but, mainly, it could be an aid in removing cellulite. Tape the electrodes to the skin at both ends of the chosen muscle and rotate P1 knob slowly until a light itch sensation is perceived. Each session should last about 30 - 40 minutes.


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Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator

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C1 generates 150µSec. pulses at about 80Hz frequency. Q1 acts as a buffer and Q2 inverts the polarity of the pulses and drives the Transformer. The amplitude of the output pulses is set by P1 and approximately displayed by the brightness of LED D1. D2 protects Q2 against high voltage peaks generated by T1 inductance during switching.
Parts :

• P1-----4K7 Linear Potentiometer
• R1-----180K   1/4W Resistor
• R2-----1K8  1/4W Resistor (see Notes)
• R3-----2K2  1/4W Resistor
• R4-----100R   1/4W Resistor
• C1-----100nF  63V Polyester Capacitor
• C2-----100µF  25V Electrolytic Capacitor
• D1-----LED  Red 5mm.
• D2-----1N4007  1000V 1A Diode
• Q1,Q2-----BC327  45V 800mA PNP Transistors
• IC1-----7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC
• T1-----220V Primary, 12V Secondary 1.2VA Mains transformer (see Notes)
• SW1-----SPST Switch (Ganged with P1)
• B1-----3V Battery (two 1.5V AA or AAA cells in series etc.)

Notes :

• T1 is a small mains transformer 220 to 12V @ 100 or 150mA. It must be reverse connected i.e. the 12V secondary winding across Q2 Collector and negative ground, and the 220V primary winding to output electrodes.
• Output voltage is about 60V positive and 150V negative but output current is so small that there is no electric-shock danger.
• In any case P1 should be operated by the "patient", starting with the knob fully counter-clockwise, then rotating it slowly clockwise until the LED starts to illuminate. Stop rotating the knob when a light itch sensation is perceived.
  Best knob position is usually near the center of its range.
• In some cases a greater pulse duration can be more effective in cellulite treatment. Try changing R2 to 5K6 or 10K maximum: stronger pulses will be easily perceived and the LED will shine more brightly.
• Electrodes can be obtained by small metal plates connected to the output of the circuit via usual electric wire and can be taped to the skin. In some cases, moistening them with little water has proven useful.
• SW1 should be ganged to P1 to avoid abrupt voltage peaks on the "patient's" body at switch-on, but a stand alone SPST switch will work quite well, provided you remember to set P1 knob fully counter-clockwise at switch-on.
• Current drawing of this circuit is about 1mA @ 3V DC.
• Some commercial sets have four, six or eight output electrodes. To obtain this you can retain the part of the circuit comprising IC1, R1, R2, C1, C2, SW1 and B1. Other parts in the diagram (i.e. P1, R3, R4, D1, D2, Q2 & T1) can be doubled, trebled or quadrupled. Added potentiometers and R3 series resistors must be wired in parallel and all connected across Emitter of Q1 and positive supply.
• Commercial sets have frequently a built-in 30 minutes timer. For this purpose you can use the Timed Beeper the Bedside Lamp Timer or the Jogging Timer circuits available on this Website, adjusting the timing components to suit your needs.

Disclaimer: we can't claim or prove any therapeutic effectiveness for this device.

Whistling Kettle

 

Most electric kettles do not produce a whistle and just switch off when they have boiled. Fitting a box of electronics directly onto an electric kettle (or even inside!) to detect when the kettle has boiled is obviously out of the question. The circuit shown here detects when the kettle switches off, which virtually all kettles do when the water has boiled. In this way, the electronics can be housed in a separate box so that no modification is required to the kettle. The box is prefer-ably a type incorporating a mains plug and socket. In this application, the current flowing in coil L1 provides a magnetic field that actuates reed switch S1. Since the current drawn by the kettle element is relatively large (typically 6 to 8 amps), the coil may consist of a few turns of wire around the reed switch. The reed switch is so fast it will actually follow the AC current flow through L1 and produce a 100-Hz buzz. The switching circuit driven by the reed switch must, therefore, disregard these short periods when the contacts open, and respond only when they remain open for a relatively long period when the kettle has switched off.

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Whistling Kettle

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The circuit is based on a simple voltage controlled oscillator formed around T2 and T3. Its operation is best understood by considering the circuit with junction R4/R5 at 0 V and C4 discharged. T2 will receive base current through R5 and turn on, causing T3 to turn on as well. The falling collector voltage of T3 is transmitted to the base of T2 by C4 causing this transistor to conduct harder. Since the action is regenerative, both transistors will turn on quickly and con-duct heavily. C4 will therefore charge quickly through T2’s base-emitter junction and T3. Once the voltage across C4 exceeds about 8.5 V (leaving less than 0.5 V across T2’s b-e junction), T2 will begin to turn off. This action is also regenerative so that soon both transistors are switched off and the collector volt-age of T3 rises rapidly to +9 V. With C4 still charged to 8.5 V, the base of T2 will rise to about 17.5 V holding T2 (and thus T3) off. C4 will now discharge relatively slowly via R5 until T2 again begins to conduct whereupon the cycle will repeat. The voltage at the collector of T3 will therefore be a series of short negative going pulses whose basic frequency will depend on the value of C4 and R5. The pulses will be reproduced in the piezo sounder as a tone.
The oscillation frequency of the regenerative circuit is heavily dependent on the voltage at junction R4/R5. As this voltage increases, the frequency will fall until a point is reached when the oscillation stops altogether. With this in mind, the operation of the circuit around T1 can be considered. In the standby condition, when the kettle is off, S1 will be open so that C1 and C2 will be discharged and T1 will remain off so that the circuit will draw no current. When the kettle is switched on, S1 is closed, causing C1 and C2 to be discharged and T1 will remain off. C3 will remain discharged so that T2 and T3 will be off and only a small current will be drawn by R1. Although S1 will open periodically (at 100 Hz), the time constant of R1/C1 is such that C1 will have essentially no voltage on it as the S1 contacts continue to close.
When the kettle switches off, S1 will be permanently open and C1/C2 will begin to charge via R1, causing T1 to switch on. C3 will then begin to charge via R4 and the falling voltage at junction R4/R5 will cause T2/T3 to start oscillating with a rising frequency. However, once T1 has switched off, C3 will no longer be charged via R4 and will begin to discharge via R3 and R5 causing the voltage at R4/R5 to rise again. The result is a falling frequency until the oscillator switches off, returning the circuit to its original condition. As well as reducing the current drawn by the circuit to zero, this mimics the action of a conventional whistling kettle, where the frequency rises as more steam is produced and then falls when it is taken off the boil.
The circuit is powered directly by the mains using a ‘lossless’ capacitive mains dropper, C6, and zener a diode, D2, to provide a nominal 8 V dc supply for the circuit.  A 1-inch reed switch used in the prototype required about 9 turns of wire to operate with a 2-kW kettle element. Larger switches or lower current may require more turns. In general, the more turns you can fit on the reed switch, the better, but do remember that the wire has to be thick enough to carry the current. It is strongly recommended to test the circuit using a 9-volt battery instead of the mains-derived supply voltage shown in the circuit diagram. A magnet may be used to operate S1 and so simulate the switching of the kettle.
Warning. This circuit is connected directly to the 230-V mains and none of the components must be touched when the circuit is in use. The circuit must be housed in an approved ABS case and carry the earth connection to the load as indicated. Connections and solder joints to components with a voltage greater than 200 volts across them (ac or dc) must have an insulating clearance of least 6 mm. An X2 class capacitor must be used in position C6.

Simple Steam Whistle

This circuit consists of six square wave oscillators. Square waves are made up of a large number of harmonics. If six square waves with different frequencies are added together, the result will be a signal with a very large number of frequencies. When you listen to the result you’ll find that it is very similar to a steam whistle. The circuit should be useful in modelling or even in a sound studio.

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Simple Steam Whistle

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This circuit uses only two ICs. The first IC, a 40106, contains six Schmitt triggers, which are all configured as oscillators. Different frequencies are generated by the use of different feedback resistors. The output signals from the Schmitt triggers are mixed via resistors. The resulting signal is amplified by IC2, an LM386. This IC can deliver about 1 W of audio power, which should be sufficient for most applications. If you leave out R13 and all components after P1, the output can then be connected to a more powerful amplifier. In this way a truly deafening steam whistle can be created. The ‘frequency’ of the signal can be adjusted with P2, and P1 controls the volume.

Lighting Up Model Aircraft

This circuit provides aircraft modellers with extremely realistic beacon and marker lights at minimum  outlay. The project ’s Strobe out-put (A) provides four brief pulses repeated periodically for the wing  (white strobe) lights. In addition the Beacon output (B) gives a double pulse to drive a red LED for indicating the aircraft’s active operational status. On the proto-type this is usually a red rotating  beacon known as an Anti-Collision Light (ACL). The circuit is equally useful for road vehicle modellers, who can use it to flash headlights and blue emergency lights.

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Lighting Up Model Aircraft

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All signals are generated by a 4060 14-stage binary counter and some minimal output selection logic. Cycle time is determined by the way the internal oscillator is con-figured (resistor and capacitor on pins 9/10) and can be varied within quite broad limits. High-efficiency LEDs are your first choice for the indicators connected to the Bea-con and Strobe outputs (remember to fit series resistors appropriate to the operating voltage Ub and the current specified for the LED used).
The sample circuit is for operating voltages between 5 and 12 V. Cur- rent flow through the two BS170 FET devices must not exceed 500 mA.

Cheap Bicycle Alarm Schematics Circuit

The author wanted a very cheap and simple alarm for some of his possessions, such as his electrically assisted bicycle. This alarm is based on a cheap window alarm, which has a time-switch added to it with a 1-minute time-out. The output  pulse of the 555 replaces the reed switch in the window alarm. The 555 is triggered by a sensor mounted near the front  wheel, in combination with a magnet that is mounted on the spokes. This sensor and the magnet were taken from a cheap bicycle computer.

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Cheap Bicycle Alarm Schematics Circuit

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The front wheel of the bicycle is kept unlocked, so that the reed  switch closes momentarily when the wheel turns. This  triggers the 555, which in turn activates the window alarm. The circuit around the 555 takes very little current and can  be powered by the batteries in the window alarm.  There  is just enough room  left inside the enclosure of the window  alarm to mount the time-switch inside it.
The result is a very cheap, compact device, with only a single cable going to the reed switch on the front wheel. And the noise this thing produces is just unbelievable! After about one minute the noise stops and the alarm goes back into standby mode. The bicycle alarm should be mounted in an inconspicuous place, such as underneath the saddle, inside a (large) front light, in the battery compartment, etc.
Hopefully the alarm scares any potential thief away, or at least it makes other members of the public aware that something isn't quite right.
Caution. The installation and use of this circuit may be subject to legal restrictions in your country, state or area.

Auto Focus for Slide Projector

 

This circuit is intended as a replacement for the electronics in a partly or wholly defective autofocus driver in a slide projector. The mechanical parts in the autofocus system are assumed to be still functional.

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Auto Focus for Slide Projector

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Most automatic focusing systems in slide projectors  are based on the use of an optical module, which comprises a small lamp, a few lenses and mirrors, and a light sensor made from two series connected light dependent resistors (LDRs), which function as a potential divider. As shown in Fig. 1, lamp La projects a narrow beam onto the centre of the slide, A, whose surface reflects it onto the LDRs. When the slide surface bulges inside or outside, the projected image on the screen is blurred, and the beam from L is received on the surface of one of the LDRs (point 2 or 3). This is detected by a motor driver circuit, which ensures that the focal distance between the objective, 0, and the slide surface is corrected to maintain a sharp image, i.e., the objective is moved until the circuit detects that the reflected beam from L falls exactly in between the LDRs.

 The circuit is based on the use of an existing set of  LDRs as part of the optical module in the slide projector. The symmetrical supply shown to the left,  and the motor plus decoupling capacitor, are also part of the projector. The inverting input of opamp IC1  is at ground potential when the above mentioned test beam falls in between the LDRs. The output of the opamp keeps the non-inverting input at 0 V as well, so that no motor voltage is available  at the emitters of power drivers Ti T2. Should the  reflected beam illuminate either one of the LDRs, the circuit arranges for the motor to move the objective glass towards the correct focal position, until no  voltage difference between the LDRs is detected.  The feedback gain of the circuit has been kept relatively low to keep the motor from continuously moving the objective glass past the target position, causing the system to oscillate slowly. Resistors R3 and R4 may have to be dimensioned differently than shown to achieve optimum response as regards speed and stability.

Oil Temperature Gauge for 125 cc Scooter

Lots of Far-Eastern scooters are fitted with GY6 engines. These already elderly units are sturdy and economical, but if you want to  “push” the power a bit (so called ‘Racing’  kits, better handling of the advance, etc.), you soon find yourself faced with the problem  of the engine temperature, and it becomes essential to f it a heat sink (of ten wrongly  referred to as a ‘radiator’) on the oil circuit. Even so, in these circumstances, it’s more than reassuring for the user to have a constant clear indication of the oil temperature. Here are the specifications we set for the temperature gauge we wanted to build:

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Oil Temperature Gauge for 125 cc Scooter

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• no moving parts (so not meter movement), as scooters vibrate a lot!;
• as cheap as possible (around £12);
• robust measuring transducer (avoid NTC thermistors and other ‘exotic’ sensors);
• temperature range 50–140 °C. (122 – 291 °F);
• audible and visual warning in case of dangerous temperature;
• compact;
• waterproof.

Let’s start by the sensor. This is a type-K thermocouple, as regularly used by multimeter manufacturers. Readily available and fairly cheap, these are robust and have excellent linearity over the measurement range we’re interested in here. The range extends from 2 mV to 5.7 mV for ten measurement points. The positive output from the thermocouple is applied to the non-inverting input of IC3.A,  wired as a non-inverting amplifier. Its gain  of 221 is determined by R1 and R2. IC3 is an LM358, chosen for its favourable characteristics when run from a single-rail supply. IC3.B is wired as a follower, just to avoid leaving it powered with its pins floating.
IC3.B output is connected to pin 5 of IC1, an LM3914. This very common IC is an LED display driver. We can choose ‘point’ or ‘bar’ mode operation, according to how pin 9 is connected. Connected as here to the + rail, the display will be in ‘bar’ mode. Pin 8, connected to ground, sets the full scale to 1.25 V. R3 sets the average LED current. Pin 4, via the potential divider R7/R8+R9, sets the offset  to 0.35 V. Using R8 and R9 in series like this avoids the need for precision resistors.
As per the LM3914 application sheet , R4-R5-R6 and C5 will make the whole display flash as soon as D10 lights (130 °C = 226 °F). Simultaneously, via R10 and T1, the (active) sounder will warn the user of overheating. Capacitor C6 avoids undesirable variations in the reference voltage in ‘flashing’ mode. IC2 is a conventional 7808 regulator and C1– C4 filter the supply rails. Do not leave these out! D1 protects the circuit against reverse polarity.
The author has designed two PCBs to be fit-ted as a ‘sandwich’ (CAD file downloadable  from [1]). In the download you’ll also find  a document with a few photos of the project. You’ll note the ultimate weapon in on-board electronics: hot-melt glue. Better than epoxy (undoable!) and quite effective against vibration.

Flashing Lights for Planes and Helicopters

There are two sorts of lights on aircraft: red or white flashing lights, which are called ‘anti-collision lights’, and steady lights, red on the tip of the left wing, green on the tip of the right wing, and white at the tail, called ‘position lights’, which enable an observer to see if the aircraft is approaching or going away. On the tip of each wing, in addition to the steady lights, there may also be flashing white strobe lights. The position light simulator given here takes a few liberties with the real position lights, making them flash (it’s more fun!) and using a little trick to simulate the strobe effect.


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Flashing Lights for Planes and Helicopters

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Rev Counter for Mopeds

Older mopeds are not usually fitted with a rev counter, which is a bit of a shortcoming. The making or finding of a suitable indicator instrument or display is often the greatest obstacle for the hobbyist. The author of this circuit has devised a practical solution to this problem in the shape of a (cheap) bicycle computer. Such bicycle computer is easily attached to the handle-bars and it usually has a large and very readable display.
The moped engine’s generator is used to detect the rev speed. The generator is connected directly to the engine drive shaft and generates an AC voltage for the on-board electrical system. The frequency of this voltage corresponds with the rev speed of the engine. This frequency, however, is too high to be used directly by the bicycle computer. The solution for this is to divide the frequency of the signal by 16, using a binary counter of the type 7493, before connecting it to the cycle computer.

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Rev Counter for Mopeds

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The generator signal is first rectified by D1, R1 and D2 and then limited to 2.5 V. Transistor T1 turns it into a usable logic signal. Counter IC1 contains four flip-flips, one after the other, which divides the signal by 16. This signal drives, via T2, the white LED D3. LDR R6 reacts to the blinking LED and is connected to the cycle computer in place of the supplied wheel sensor.  The generator signal also sup-plies the power for the circuit. D4/C1 provide rectification and filtering, after which the voltage is regulated to 5 V byT3 and D4.
For a correct read-out (calibrated rev counter), the bicycle computer needs to be adjusted for a wheel circumference of 889 mm or 89 cm (wheel diameter 28 inch).  Make sure that when building the circuit it is suitably protected against vibration and moisture. Mount the LED and LDR directly opposite each other and keep in mind that they need to be well shielded from ambient light.

LM1812 Ultrasonic-Transceiver

The LM1812 is a complete ultrasonic transceiver on a chip designed for use in a variety of pulse-echo ranging applications. The chip operates by transmitting a burst of oscillations with a transducer, then using the same transducer to listen for a return echo. Ifan echo of sufficient amplitude is received, the LM1812 detector puts out a pulse of approximately the same width as the original burst. The closer the reflecting object, the earlier the return echo.

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LM1812 Ultrasonic-Transceiver

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Echos could be received immediately after the initial burst was transmitted, except for the fact that the transducer rings. When transmitting, the transducer is excited with several hundred volts peak to peak, and it operates in a loudspeaker mode. Then, when the LM1812 stops transmitting and begins to receive, the transducer continues to vibrate or ring, even though excitation has stopped. The transducer acts as a microphone and produces an ac signal initially the same amplitude as the transmit pulse. This signal dies away as is governed by the transducer"s damping factor, but as long as detectable ringing remains, the LM1812"s detector will be held on, masking any return echos.

Low Cost Garage Stop Light

A novel use of solar cells makes positioning your car in the garage rather easier than old tyres, a mirror, or a chalk mark.The six solar cells in figure 1 serve as power supply and as proximity sensor. They are commercially available at relative low cost. The voltage developed across potentiometer Pi is mainly dependent on the intensity of the light falling onto the cells. The circuit is only actuated when the main beam of one of the car's headlights shines direct onto the cells from a distance of about 200 mm (8 inches). The distance can be varied somewhat with P.


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Low Cost Garage Stop Light

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Under those conditions, the voltage developed across C1 is about 3 V, which is sufficient to trigger relaxation oscillator Ni. The BC547B is then switched on via buffer N2 so that D3 begins to lfash. Diodes Di and D2 provide an additional in-crease in the threshold of the circuit. The total voltage drop of 1.2 V across them ensures that the potential at pin I of the 4093 is always 1.2 V below the voltage developed by the solar cells. As the trip level of Ni lies at about 50 per cent of the supply voltage, the oscillator will only start when the supply voltage is higher than 2.4 V.
The circuit, including the solar cells, is best constructed on a small veroboard as shown in figure 3, and then fitted in a translucent or transparent manmade fibre case. The case is fitted onto the garage wall in a position where one of the car's headlights shines direct onto it. The LED is fitted onto the same wall, but a little higher so that it is in easy view of the driver of the car. When you drive into the garage, you must, of course, remember to switch on the main beam of your headlights!

Automatic Wiper Control

A continuously working wiper is a big problem when it is raining slightly.The wiper control given here makes the wiper to sweep at rates from 1S to 10 S.
The circuit is build around an astable multivibrator using NE 555.Here the output at pin 3 remains high for a time period set by R2 ,and low for a time period set by R3.The low output pulse drives the transistor pair to drive the wiper motor to make one sweeping cycle and waits for next low pulse to arrive for next sweep.The high going pulse at pin 3 determines how many time should wiper should sweep in a given period of time.

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Automatic Wiper Control

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Notes:

• Connect the circuit to 12V line from Vehicle and connect the wiper motor and wiper switch as shown in figure.
• For setting the device first find out how much time it is required for the wiper to complete one sweep cycle.Now adjust
• R3 such that wiper makes correct one sweep cycle.Fix R2 some where on the dash board.And now the system is ready to use.
• You can adjust the sweep rate of the wiper using R2 according to the intensity of rain.

Electronic Car Horn Circuit Diagram

An LM556 dual oscillator/timer, U1, configured as a two-tone oscillator drives U2, a dual 4-watt amplifier. One of the oscillators, pins 1 to 6, contained in U1 produces the upper frequency signal of about 200 Hz, while the second oscillator, pins 8 to 13, provides the lower frequency signal of about 140Hz.

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Electronic Car Horn Circuit Diagram

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Increase or decrease the frequencies by changing the values of C2 and C3. U1's outputs, pins 9 and 5, are connected to separate potentiometers to provide control over volume and balance. Each half of U2 produces 4W of audio that is delivered to two 8 ohms loudspeakers via capacitors C7 and C8.

Automatic Water Tank Filler Circuit Diagram

 

This circuit has been very useful in filling a header tank for a reticulated water supply on a farm. Eight troughs are supplied in different paddocks where a lack of water would have serious consequences for the stock. In the past, the tank had been filled daily by a time clock which was not successful. During hot weather, the stock would empty the tank on a regular basis and then be without water for several hours or the tank would overflow and flood the area if the weather was wet and the cattle did not drink much.

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Automatic Water Tank Filler Circuit Diagram

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 The circuit described has been used to maintain the level of water in the header tank within prescribed limits. It controls a 3HP submersible bore pump which has a high starting current, necessitating a solid-state relay sufficient to take the starting load. Two Darlington transistors, Q1 & Q3, in conjunction with Q2 & Q4, are connected to the upper and lower water sensors in the tank. Q2 & Q4 have a common 5.6kO load resistor and function as a NOR gate. The output of the NOR gate drives Q5 which activates relay RLY1.

Initially, when the water level is low, both sensors will be open-circuit, the NOR gate output will be high and the relay will be turned on. This causes the normally closed (NC) contacts of the relay to open and disconnect the lower sensor. However, the upper sensor will still be open circuit and the NOR gate output will be high, keeping the relay closed. The normally open (NO) contact of the relay will be closed to operate the solid-state relay RLY2 to run the pump.

This state continues until the water reaches the top sensor which will then drop the output from the NOR gate to 0V. The disables relay RLY1 and the pump is stopped. In practice the upper level sensor is just below the overflow from the tank and the lower sensor about half way up the tank. The sensor contacts are simply two stainless steel screws about 25mm apart and screwed through the poly tank walls. The wiring junctions on the side of the tank are protected by neutral-cure silicone sealant.

4 Channel Portable Audio Mixer

The target of this project was the design of a small portable mixer supplied by a 9V PP3 battery, keeping high quality performance. The mixer is formed assembling three main modules that can be varied in number and/or disposition to suit everyone needs. The three main modules are:

Input Amplifier Module: a low noise circuit equipped with a variable voltage-gain (10 - 100) preset, primarily intended as high quality microphone input, also suitable for low-level line input.

Tone Control Module: a three-band (Bass, Middle, Treble) tone control circuit providing unity-gain when its controls are set to flat frequency response. It can be inserted after one or more Input Amplifier Modules and/or after the Main Mixer Amplifiers.

Main Mixer Amplifier Module: a stereo circuit incorporating two virtual-earth mixers and showing the connection of one Main Fader and one Pan-Pot.

The image below shows a Block diagram of the entire mixer featuring four Input Amplifier Modules followed by four in-out switchable Tone Control Modules, one stereo Line input, four mono Main Faders, one stereo dual-ganged Main Fader, four Pan-Pots, a stereo Main Mixer Amplifier Module and two further Tone Control Modules switchable in and out for each channel, inserted before the main Left and Right outputs.

Obviously this layout can be rearranged at everyone wish. An astonishing feature of this design lies in the fact that a complete stereo mixer as shown below in the Block diagram draws less than 6mA current!


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1.4 Channel Portable Audio Mixer Input Amplifier Module

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Parts:

R1 = 22K - 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 22K - 1/4W Resistor
R3 = 47K - 1/4W Resistor
R4 = 47K - 1/4W Resistor
R5 = 47K - 1/4W Resistor
R6 = 4K7 - 1/4W Resistor
R7 = 22K - 1/4W Resistor
R8 = 220R - 1/4W Resistor
R9 = 2K - 1/2W Trimmer Cermet (See Notes)
R10 = 470K - 1/4W Resistor
R11 = 560R - 1/4W Resistor
R12 = 100K - 1/4W Resistor
R13 = 220R - 1/4W Resistor

C1 = 470nF - 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2 = 100µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3 = 2µ2 - 63V Electrolytic Capacitor
C4 = 2µ2 - 63V Electrolytic Capacitor
C5 = 2µ2 - 63V Electrolytic Capacitor
C6 = 47pF - 63V Ceramic Capacitor
C7 = 4µ7 - 63V Electrolytic Capacitor
C8 = 100µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
Q1 = BC560C - 45V 100mA Low noise High gain PNP Transistor
Q2 = BC550C - 45V 100mA Low noise High gain NPN Transistor
IC1 = TL061 - Low current BIFET Op-Amp

Circuit Description:

The basic arrangement of this circuit is derived from the old Quad magnetic pick-up cartridge module. The circuit was rearranged to cope with microphone input and a single-rail low voltage supply. This low-noise, fully symmetrical, two-transistor head amplifier layout, allows the use of a normal FET input Op-Amp as the second gain stage, even for very sensitive microphone inputs. The voltage-gain of this amplifier can be varied by means of R9 from 10 to 100, i.e. 20 to 40dB.

Notes:

• R9 can be a trimmer, a linear potentiometer or a fixed-value resistor at will.
• When voltage-gain is set to 10, the amplifier can cope with 800mV peak-to-peak maximum Line levels.
• Current drawing for one Input Amplifier Module is 600µA.
• Frequency response is 20Hz to 20KHz - 0.5dB.
• Total Harmonic Distortion measured with voltage-gain set to 100: 2V RMS output = <0.02%>
• Total Harmonic Distortion measured with voltage-gain set to 10 & 33: 2V RMS output = <0.02%>
• THD is much lower @ 1V RMS output.
• Maximum undistorted output voltage: 2.8V RMS.

 
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2. 4 Channel Portable Audio Mixer 2Tone Control Module

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Parts:

P1 = 100K - Linear Potentiometer
P2 = 100K - Linear Potentiometer
P3 = 470K - Linear Potentiometer

R1 = 12K - 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 12K - 1/4W Resistor
R3 = 12K - 1/4W Resistor
R4 = 3K9 - 1/4W Resistor
R5 = 3K9 - 1/4W Resistor
R6 = 1K8 - 1/4W Resistor
R7 = 1K8 - 1/4W Resistor
R8 = 22K - 1/4W Resistor
R9 = 22K - 1/4W Resistor
R10 = 560R - 1/4W Resistor
R11 = 100K - 1/4W Resistor
R12 = 220R - 1/4W Resistor

C1 = 1µF - 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2 = 47nF - 63V Polyester Capacitor
C3 = 4n7 - 63V Polyester Capacitor
C4 = 22nF - 63V Polyester Capacitor
C5 = 4n7 - 63V Polyester Capacitors
C6 = 100µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C7 = 4µ7 - 63V Electrolytic Capacitor
C8 = 100µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
IC1 = TL061 - Low current BIFET Op-Amp

Circuit Description:

This is a straightforward design using the Baxandall-type active circuitry slightly modified to obtain a three-band control. Total voltage gain of this module is 1 when controls are set in their center position.

Notes:

• Current drawing for one Tone Control Module is 400µA.
• Frequency response is 20Hz to 20KHz - 0.5dB, controls flat.
• Tone control frequency range: ±15dB @ 30Hz; ±19dB @ 1KHz; ±16dB @ 10KHz.
• Total Harmonic Distortion measured @ 2V RMS output = <0.012%>
• THD is below 0.01% @ 1V RMS output.
• Maximum undistorted output voltage: 2.5V RMS.

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4 Channel Portable Audio Mixer 3 Main Mixer Amplifier Module

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Parts:

P1 = 100K - Linear Potentiometer
P2 = 10K - Linear Potentiometer
R1 = 15K - 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 15K - 1/4W Resistor
R3 = 100K - 1/4W Resistor
R4 = 100K - 1/4W Resistor
R5 = 22K - 1/4W Resistors
R6 = 22K - 1/4W Resistors
R7 = 390K - 1/4W Resistor
R8 = 390K - 1/4W Resistor
R9 = 560R - 1/4W Resistor
R10 = 560R - 1/4W Resistor
R11 = 100K - 1/4W Resistor
R12 = 100K - 1/4W Resistor
R13 = 220R - 1/4W Resistor

C1 = 330nF - 63V Polyester Capacitors
C2 = 330nF - 63V Polyester Capacitors
C3 = 100µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C4 = 10pF - 63V Ceramic Capacitors
C5 = 10pF - 63V Ceramic Capacitors
C6 = 4µ7 - 63V Electrolytic Capacitors
C7 = 4µ7 - 63V Electrolytic Capacitors
C8 = 100µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
IC1 = TL062 - Low current BIFET Dual Op-Amp

Circuit Description:

The schematic of this circuit is drawn as a stereo unit to better show the input Main Fader and Pan-Pot connections. The TL062 chip contains two TL061 op-amps into the same 8 pin case and is wired as two virtual-earth mixer amplifiers having a voltage gain of about 4, to compensate for losses introduced in the passive Pan-Pot circuitry. Therefore, total voltage-gain is 1.
Each channel added to the mixer must include the following additional parts:
P1, P2, R1, R2, R3, R4, C1 and C2.
These parts must be wired as shown in the above circuit diagram, connecting R3 and R4 to pin #2 and pin #6 of IC1 for Right and Left channel respectively. These IC1 pins are the "virtual-earth mixing points" and can sum together a great number of channels.

Notes:

• Current drawing for one stereo Main Mixer Amplifier Module is 800µA.
• Frequency response is 20Hz to 20KHz - 0.5dB.
• Total Harmonic Distortion measured @ 2V RMS output = <0.008%>
• THD is 0.005% @ 1V RMS output.
• Maximum undistorted output voltage: 2.8V RMS.

Further Parts:

To parts listed above should be added: one Main on-off SPST switch, a LED used as pilot-light with its dropping 2K2 1/4W series-resistor, DPDT switches to enable or omit Tone Control Modules as shown in the Block diagram, input and output connectors of the type preferred, one stereo dual-gang 100K potentiometer to fade the Stereo Line Input as shown in the Block diagram, battery clip, PP3 9V battery, knobs etc.
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Universal Remote Codes by TV set Brand

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 Universal Remote Codes by TV set Brand

Senjata Kejut Listrik Stun Gun

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Stun gun merupakan perangkat elektronik yang secara resmi digunakan sebagai senjata para penegak hukum di negara-negara maju. Kata lain dari alat ini disebut senjata kejut listrik. Mungkin bagi pembaca sudah pernah melihat difilm fiksi. Alat yang dirancang tidak mematikan namun bsa melumpuhkan manusia dalam hitungan detik. Prinsip dari alat ini memanfaatkan penggandaan tegangan yang mencapai 800 KV (800 ribu volt) DC dengan arus rendah.

Alat ini sengaja dirancang seminimal mungkin secara fisik dengan tujuan mobilitas dan hasil yang tidak diragukan. Tenaga disupplai oleh baterai 3-6 volt DC kemudian dinaikkan dengan proses switching frekwensi tinggi.

Untuk lebih mudah, silahkan pahami rangkaian elektronika stun gun di bawah ini...!!

Gambar 1. Stun gun sederhana menggunakan IC 555 sebagai switching

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Skema Senjata Kejut Listrik Staun Gun

Rangkaian di atas terdiri dari satu komponen oscilator, penguat transitor dan trafo step up. Oscilator mentrigger transistor untuk menghasilkan tegangan yang bersimultan berbentuk gelombang kotak. Sehingga proses perpindahan energi listrik dari kumparan primer ke kumparan sekunder bisa terjadi. Mungkin pembaca ingat bahwa trafo atau transformator tidak bisa di aliri tegangan DC (kebanyakan menggunakan AC), dengan switching ini tegangan DC diubah seakan-akan menjadi AC namun tidak mempunyai puncak negatic (-V).

Gambar 2. Stun gun sederhana menggunakan transistor sebagai switching

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Skema Senjata Kejut Listrik Staun Gun

Rangkaian di atas hampir sama dengan gambar yang pertama. Perbedaan mendasar pada rangkaian ini ditambahkan pensaklaran menggunakan TRIAC, sedangkan oscilatornya menggunakan komponen resistor dan kapasitor (RC). Yang perlu dipahami sebagai seorang anak teknik, rangkaian ini mempunyai output negatip (-) dan positif (+) dipasang pada dua elektroda dengan jarak tertentu (ex: 5 cm). Pada teori bahan isolator, kuat isolasi udara diantara gap elektroda tadi + 30 KV/cm, diatas tegangan tersebut udara sudah tidak mampu lagi mampu menahan. Output tegangan yang dihasilkan stun gun ini berkisar 25 KV - 800 KV, sehingga pada saat di aktifkan terjadilah fenomena korona diantara dua elektroda yang disebabkan ionisasi muatan listrik. Karena melebihi gradient voltagenya (+ 30KV) maka timbullah loncatan api. Loncatan api inilah yang menyebabkan manusia atau hewan bisa kejang kemudian pingsan.



Kini sudah dirilis senjata resmi polisi amerika yang sering digunakan untuk melumpuhkan pengendara yang mabuk. Senjata ini hampir sama dengan stun gun portable lainnya, namun punya fitur isi ulang peluru dan bisa menembak target pada jarak 10 meter. Peluru diisi dengn bubuk mesiu untuk mendorong proyektil berupa jarum tajam (steril). Pada ujung jarum dipasang kabel yang berasal dari rangkaian penaik tegangan.

CARA MEMPERBAIKI OPTIK PS2 YANG RUSAK ATAU LEMAH

CARA MEMPERBAIKI OPTIK PS2 YANG RUSAK ATAU LEMAH - Beberapa konsumen yang datang ke "Warung" membawa mesin PS2, Rupanya tidak selamanya memakai Hardisk, Adapula yang masih mempergunakan, Optik, Alasanya beragam, Pake hardisk Mahal Pa, Dan ada beberapa game yang ngga bisa dijalankan pada Hardisk, Jadi terkadang lebih enak Pake media Optik. Belinya murah, Dan semua game pasti jalan, Asalkan Optiknya bagus. pasti jalan lancar. Atau ada juga yang beralasan, Optik saya masih bagus pa, Jadi nanti aja pas rusak,  Baru saya pakai Hardisk. Toh kalo pake hardisk banyak toko,  Sudah langsung mencopot optiknya, Jadi sayangkan kalo optiknya masih bagus, Sudah dipasang hardisk.

Hem..itulah,  Mereka dan beberapa alasannya. Ada alasannya yang masuk diakal, Ada juga yang Tidak, Tapi akhir dari semua ceriteranya,  Adalah : Mereka mau ngasih rejeki, Sama Anda,  Dan Saya, Untuk benerin Optik mereka, Yang rusak, Inilah sebenarnya yang seharusnya anda dan Saya sadari. dari awal,  titik !!!.

GEJALA :

1]. Kesulitan membaca Disk.
2]. Milih CD Game, biasanya CD mau tapi DVD tidak mau.
3]. Suara berderit, KetikaOptik bergerak membaca CD/DVD Game.
4]. Makan CD, Ketika CD/DVD baru di  Jalankan, Banyak Goresan didapatkan pada Disknya.

SOLUSI :

1]. KESULITAN MEMBACA DISK.

Masalah ini, bisa saja anda selesaikan, dengan membuat CD Game copy-an, Anda bisa pilih kualitas CD yang terbaik, Dan membakarnya dengan Speed yang sangat rendah, Jadi diharapkan Optik yang sudah lemahpun Lasernya, Mampu, untuk membacanya. Langkah berikutnya, Bisa saja anda membersihkan Bagian-bagian Optik beserta mekanikal drivenya, Seta memberikan pelumasan pada bagian Rel, Optiknya. Ingat membersihkan bukan berarti anda menyetel Dudukan dan Posisi Trim optiknya. Biarkan saja Standard. dan Ingat Posisi Gearset pada Ujung mekanical Drivennya jangan dirubah, sekali lagi Ingat, tugas anda, hanya membersihkan Optik, Tidak lebih dari itu.

2]. MILIH CD/DVD GAME.

Masalah seperti Ini, bisa anda atasi dengan merubah, Posisi optik, baik dari posisi, mekanikal optiknya, Maupun dari sudut posisi Trimpod pada Optiknya. Bisa juga ditambah sedikit pekerjaan membersihkan, Permukaan Lensa Optiknya, dan membersihkan Kaca Reflektor pada bagian dalam optiknya. Lakukan dengan hati-hati, Awas Flexyble optik mudah robek..Pastikan anda tidak tergesa-gesa dalam melakukannya. Ingat, Jangan sekali kali, meniup dengan mulut anda, kaca reflektor didalam optiknya,  maupun lensanya, Tiupan anda yang mengandung faktor kelembaban, bisa membuat, kaca menjadi basah dan berembun,  malahan membuat optik, sama sekali tidak mampu baca, Karena kaca berkabut, Dan Pantulan biner yang dipancarkan, Tidak mampu untuk ditransmisikan, kembali secara 2 arah, Tiuplah dengan angin kompresor lembut, atau pake Pengabut angin.[peniup]

3]. SUARA OPTIK BERGERAK, DAN  BERDERIT KETIKA TERJADI PROSES BACA

Suara berderit, Umumnya disebabkan Oleh Kaitan Optik yang patah,  atau Robek, Kaitan ini ada yang terbuat dari semacam Kaleng, dan adapula yang terbuat dari Plastik. Kaitan ini, bekerja, mengaitkan Optik ke rel Ulir, Motor samping, Yang bergerak berdasarkan perintah biner yang sudah diaktualisasikan oleh IC EE dan IC Driver penggerak optik, Akibat kaitan yang robek atau patah, maka Optik bekerja dan bergerak tidak maksimal, Dan motor samping serta IC driver akan menyusul, Mengalami kerusakan, Jika Kaitannya dibiarkan, tidak dibetulkan. Suara berderit berikutnya, adalah Gesekan yang terjadi antara, Cassing penutup Optik dengan CD/DVD, atau bisa juga suara tersebut ditimbulkan, akibat Gesekan CD/DVD Game dengan Flexyble Optik. yang menghubungkan langsung antara biner dari optik ke Mainboard PS2nya, kejadian ini bisa terdengar dan juga  terlihat langsung, pada bagian CD/DVD Game, yang sering menjadi baret-baret ketika dijalankan.

4]. MAKAN CD/DVD GAME. MEMBUAT BARET-BARET PADA DISK.

Hali ini bisa terjadi karena Cassing pelindung lensa optik, Posisi penampang pemasangannya tidak tepat, dan berada pada posisi yang terlalu ketinggian. Ini bisa dicegah dan diperbaiki dengan, Mengubah Gear set putih plastik yang berada pada ujung mekanikal optik. Aturlah. disesuikan dengan ketinggian yang seharusnya, dan tidak memakan CD/DVD Game. pengaturan biasanya anda harus lepaskan posisi blok optik dari mainboard, Dan putarkan CD/DVD Game secara manual perlahan, Telitilah dan lihatlah dengan seksama ketika CD diputarkan secara perlahan apakah, Posisi pelindung optik masih berada pada posisi tidak pas, ataukah posisi nya sudah benar tepat pada gridnya, Penyebab lain CD menjadi Gores, atau baret, adalah kabel Flexy Optik. Yang ketika optik bergerak mundur untuk baca Track terakhir, Dia terdorong keatas menyentuh CD, hingga terjadi Goresan, Karena seharusnya Kabel Flexy ini ketika terdorong kebelakang, Harusnya Masuk pada Bagian bawah optik yang sudah disediakan. Kelemahan ini ditandai dengan Goresan dan luka pada kabel Flexy Optik, Dan CD menjadi baret, Gantilah, dan berikan selotife lakban bening untuk melindunginnya.

Anda bisa mengukur Besaran seharusnya arus di Motor samping, Posisi pengatur tinggi rendah suatu blok optik, Jika anda memiliki dan mengerti, serta mau belajar tentang skema atau diagram PS, Carilah diagram itu, Gratis kok, Cuman kalo ngga mau cape, ngga mau banyak abis terbuang waktunya,

Kalo seandainya tutorial CARA MEMPERBAIKI OPTIK PS2 YANG RUSAK ATAU LEMAH  ini sulit anda mengerti, Saya rasa sudah saatnya anda membagi rejeki dengan orang lain, Karena dari  situlah profesi tukang service, Dokter, penyanyi, dan lain-lain, bisa hidup, Jadi bisa kita saling melengkapi, antara kita dengan yang lain, Terima kasih atas perhatiannya.

Rangkaian Ballast Elektronik 2 x 40 Watt Dengan IC IR2151

Rangkaian ballast elektronik pada gambar dibawah ini memiliki daya output yang besar dan dapat digunakan untuk menyalakan 2 buah lampu TL 40 Watt. Rangkaian ballast elektronik ini menggunakan IC IR2151 yang berfungsi sebagai kontrol rangkaian DC to AC converter. Rangkaian ballast elektronik ini memiliki 2 terminal output yang masing-masing terminal memiliki daya output 40 watt yang dapat dihubungkan dengan lampu TL (Fluorescent) 40 watt. Gambar skema dan daftar komponen dari rangkaian ballast elektronik 2 x 40 Watt dengan IC IR2151 dapat dilihat pada gambar berikut. Rangkaian Ballast Elektronik 2 x 40 Watt Dengan IC IR2151 Rangkaian Ballast Elektronik 2 x 40 Watt Dengan IC IR2151,ballast elektronik,rangkaian ballast elektronik,skema ballast elektronik,membuat ballast elektronik,merakit ballast elektronik,

PCB ballast elektronik,harga ballast elektronik,harga ballast elektronik philips,ballast elektronik philips,ballast elektronik 2 x 40W philips,rangkaian ballast elektronik philips,ballast elektronik 2 x 40W,ballast elektronik 80W,harga ballast elektronik 80W,harga jual ballast elektronik 2x40W,ballast elektronik rakitan,ballast elektronik dengan IC,ballast elektronik IC IR2151,IC IR2151,IC ballast elektronik,komponen ballast elektronik,cara buat ballast elektronik,gambar rangkaian ballast elektronik,rectifier,converter DC to AC,daya output ballast elektronik philips Rangkaian ballas elektronik 2 x 40 watt diatas dibangun dalam beberapa bagian sebagai berikut. Rectifier, bagian rectifier ini berfungsi untuk menyearahkan tegangan AC 220V menjadi tegangan DC 320V. Rectifier untuk rangkaian ballast elektronik ini dibuat menggunkan dioda bridge dan kapasitor elektrolit. Tegangan DC 320V ini pada akhirnya digunakan untuk mensupply rangkaian converter DC ke AC sebagai bagian utama ballast elektronik tersebut. Converter DC to AC.

Rangkaian converter DC ke AC ini berfungsi untuk mengubah tegangan DC 320V menjadi tegangan AC 500 Volt dengan frekuensi kerja 45 Khz. Bagian converter DC ke AC pada ballast elektronik ini dibangun menggunakan IC IR2151 dan power converter berupa MOSFET 2 buah tipe IRF720. Frekuensi kerja rangkaian converter DC ke AC pada ballast elektronik ini ditentukan oleh konfigurasi rangkaian resistor 15 KOhm dan kapasitor 10 nF. Rangkaian ballast elektronik 2 x 40 watt ini sering digunakan atau diaplikasikan pada pemasangan lampu TL untuk penerangan lapangan olah raga seperti bulu tangkis. Pada penrangan lokasi olah raga tersebut memerlukan intensitas cahaya yang cukup sehingga diperlukan 2 unit lampu TL 40 watt untuk tiap titik pemasangan, sehingga rangkaian ballast elektronik 2 x 40 watt dengan IC IR2151 ini dapat digunakan.


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 Skema Rangkaian Ballast Elektronik

Xenon Strobe Light

 

Introduction
As a companion to the Lighting Controller presented in Project 62, this strobe can be used for the strobe head unit. Although the circuit presented is somewhat incomplete (in terms of all component values, suggested xenon flash tubes, etc), the basic principles will allow you to create a unit that will work well and reliably. One of the problems is that I can't predict what xenon flash tubes you will be able to obtain, so some guidelines are given for tube selection, and determination of the amount of capacitance needed.
Note that the description given here is meant only as a guideline. Xenon tubes can have widely differing characteristics, depending on their intended usage, and some may not work properly in this application. You must accept all responsibility for your actions if you decide to build this strobe flash. ESP has taken all reasonable precautions against publishing errors in this article, but it is still only a guideline.

*** EXTREME HAZARD WARNING *** This system connects directly to, and operates at, mains voltages or above. It is potentially lethal. Always be aware that the entire strobe circuit is LIVE and take all the necessary precautions during construction to ensure safe operation.  Never work on the circuit while it is plugged into the mains outlet, and remember that capacitors can hold a charge for a long time.  Make sure that all caps are fully discharged before attempting to work on the circuit.

Since the circuit operates at greater than mains potential and is not isolated by a transformer, it is extremely dangerous. The DC operating potential is about 340V, and there is more than enough stored charge to kill you many times over (although in my experience, once is usually sufficient). This is not meant to be funny - this is truly serious stuff. In addition, the circuitry usually is directly mains (line) powered, with no isolation. Discharge all capacitors before working on any flash system.
STROBE LIGHTS CAN CAUSE EPILEPTIC FITS AND DISORIENTATION This can happen even with people who are not epileptic as such. Many countries have laws governing the use of strobe lights in public places, and effects such as nausea, vomiting and epilepsy have been directly linked to the excessive use of strobes at the right (wrong?) flash rate. Use of this or any such circuit is entirely at your own risk.
More information on strobes, flashes and related topics is available at Sam's Strobe FAQ This is suggested reading for anyone wanting to know more about the subject.
The largest strobe I ever made used a 1000J tube, and I flashed it at about 80J / flash. This was a very powerful strobe, and had to be limited at higher frequencies (above 12Hz) to prevent the tube from going into meltdown. The following is NOT a description of that unit.

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Description A xenon flash tube is a triggered gas discharge device. A voltage may be impressed across the tube and it will not conduct until the xenon gas is ionised by an external high voltage (typically 3 to 5kV). Once triggered, the gas becomes a very low impedance, and discharges the storage capacitors in about 1ms (this varies considerably, but this figure is fine for basic calculations).
During discharge, the xenon gas emits broad spectrum white light, which is at nearly the same colour temperature of daylight. For this reason, xenon flash tubes are now the universal choice for photographic flashes, since there is very little colour change when using normal daylight film. None of this has anything to do with a strobe - I just thought I'd include it for interest's sake.
Figure 1 shows the basic flash (strobe) circuit. The mains is rectified directly (using a voltage doubler circuit for 120V supplies) via a current limiting resistor, and the capacitor bank is connected directly across the flash tube. The trigger circuit charges a small capacitance via another limiting resistor. When the SCR is triggered, the capacitor discharges through the primary of the trigger transformer, and a high voltage pulse is developed which is applied to the trigger electrode of the flash tube.
The xenon gas becomes conductive, and the capacitor bank is discharged until the voltage is insufficient to maintain conduction in the tube, which then extinguishes. The capacitors charge up again ready for the next flash.

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Skema Xenon Strobe Light

Figure 1 - Basic Flash Unit Keep the wires from the storage capacitor (C3) to the tube short (less than 100mm total if possible). The trigger transformer must be as close to the tube as you can get it - HV insulated cable could be used, but the results are unpredictable.
How it Works
The mains (switched by SW1) is supplied to the rectifier via current limiting resistor R1 (for flash tubes above 100 Joules, I suggest that this resistor be at least 10W). Diodes D1-D4 should be rated at 1000V, and at least 2.5A (i.e. do not use 1N4007 or similar). At a pinch, 3 x 1N4007 in parallel for each diode should work out ok. The terminals marked SWA and SWN are 'Switched Active' and 'Switched Neutral' respectively, and are for connection to the transformer supply for the trigger circuit. The fuse (F1) is shown as 1A, which will be fine for 240V units up to about 200W - a slow blow fuse is suggested. Do not use a fuse rated at more than a couple of amps over the maximum power rating.  Calculate the minimum fuse value thus ...

I = P / V   where I is current, V is supply voltage and P is maximum power (see below)

The SCR can be almost any medium current device your local electronics supplier has handy, as long as it is rated at a minimum of 400V. A C122E, SC141D or BT137-500 would all do nicely - says he boldly, after looking in a local supplier's cattle dog (for the non-Australians out there, this is common slang for a catalogue ).
The link shown between the junction of D2 and D4 must be inserted for operation at 120V, and omitted for 240V operation. This link converts the bridge into a full-wave voltage doubler, and this is needed at the lower mains voltage to obtain the 340V DC needed by the flash tube.

Do not install the link for 240V operation!

All capacitors should be rated at a minimum of 350V (preferably 450V). The storage capacitor can be a standard electrolytic, but its life will be limited due to the high discharge current. You might be able to get hold of a few disposable cameras and nab the capacitors from these (they probably won't last very long either, but they're cheap ).
To obtain flash tubes, try your local electronics suppliers, or for larger (i.e. more powerful) tubes you might be better off dealing with a photographic supplier. Remember to get the correct trigger transformer to suit the tube, and make sure that the tube you select is designed for operation at about 300V - some require a very much higher voltage and will not work properly (if at all) at lower voltages.
Trigger Circuit
The triggering circuit uses R4 to charge C4 with a time constant of about 10ms. When the SCR is fired (via opto isolator CR2), C4 is discharged with the primary of TR1 in the discharge path. This generates a high voltage at the secondary, triggering X1, the xenon flash tube. No appreciable voltage is generated as the capacitor charges due to the relatively slow charge rate of the capacitor.
Flash Intensity and Capacitance
It is very important that you select the storage capacitor (C3) and its associated limiting resistor to suit the flash tube. The following section shows how the capacitance and resistance may be calculated.
The flash intensity is measured in Joules (Watt / Seconds). The energy storage (in Joules) of a capacitor is determined with the formula ...

Energy (Joules) = 1/2(CV²)   where C is capacitance in Farads and V is voltage

A typical strobe might use a 200uF capacitor charged to 340V, which gives about 11 Joules per flash, thus ...

Energy = 1/2 (200 E^-6 * 340²) = 1/2 (23.12) = 11.5 J

It is actually less than this, since the entire stored charge in the capacitor is not used, but this errs on the side of caution. This is important, since we don't want to melt the tube or subject it to any more mechanical shock than it was designed for. Assume a maximum flash rate of 15 f/s, each with a duration of 1ms (meaning effective power is actually nearly 11,000W per flash!). A passable guideline is ...

Total Energy (Joules) = 0.5J per 10uF (at 340V)

We can now calculate the average dissipation of the tube ...

Dissipation (Watts) = f/s * E   where f/s is flashes per second, E is energy in Joules

For our example, the tube will have a continuous dissipation of 172W ...

Dissipation (Watts) = 15 * 11.5 = 172.5W

This means that the tube should have an average power rating of 200W (or 200 Joules), or its maximum rating will be exceeded. To be able to flash at the maximum power at higher flash rates is not generally necessary, so we can limit the power simply by increasing the value of the input limiting resistor. This will increase the life of the tube, and ensure that its safe working temperature is not exceeded. Where you really do need to operate at maximum intensity at the higher rates, consider using forced air cooling for the tube (and the limiting resistor - this will get HOT!)
Resistance
R3 limits the current into C3, the storage capacitor. The value of the storage capacitor must be selected to suit the flash tube (see above). The value of R3 is dependent on the maximum flash rate and the value of C3. At a typical value of 100 ohms it will need to be rated at about 100W for normal use. With a 220uF cap this has a charge time constant of 22ms, allowing up to a 20Hz flash rate with only a slightly reduced voltage, but at this frequency the resistor will be dissipating close to 275W!! That was not a misprint - even at a 10Hz flash rate dissipation is over 100W.
Calculate the resistor using the following guidelines ....

R = 0.02 / C   where R is the resistance and C is the capacitance (0.02 is 20ms)
P = (1200 * f/s) / R   where f/s is the maximum flash rate per second

The above equations are approximate only, but will provide a passably accurate result. Needless to say I take no responsibility if your flash tube melts and the resistors explode.

Warning - The current limiting resistor (R3) may need to be increased from the calculated value to ensure that the xenon tube extinguishes after it is flashed. All tubes have a 'holding' current, and if the resistor can supply more than this minimum current, the arc will not quench. If the arc is maintained, R3 will get very hot indeed, as will the tube. Sustained operation with a continuous arc will destroy one or both components.

An Example
You can get a 100 Joule tube, and want to flash at 15Hz maximum. At the tube rating, this will allow a maximum of 100/15 = 6.6 Joules per flash (say 6.5). This requires a capacitance of 130uF based on the guideline above. The resistance should be 150 Ohms at 120W, although you will almost certainly get away with a 100W rating.

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Trigger Circuit The strobe circuit is not much use by itself. A fully isolated trigger is also required, and the safety aspect cannot be over-emphasised. Using an opto-isolated triac trigger is the safest possible method, but great care is needed to ensure that the intrinsic isolation afforded by the opto is not compromised - do not run any tracks between the pins, and ensure that a minimum clearance / creepage distance of 6mm is maintained between the mains connected wiring and the "safe" terminals.
To allow the strobe to function as a standalone unit, an internal oscillator can be used. A 555 timer is ideal for this, and can be disabled to allow remote (10V DC) trigger control. Figure 2 shows a suitable oscillator and the connection for the MOC3020 opto-isolator for the remote trigger. The oscillator is very similar to that used in the Lighting Controller, and has a frequency range from 1.25 f/s up to 19 f/s, with a positive going pulse duration of about 1.8ms. This circuit will need a small transformer power supply (as shown) for simplicity and safety.
This also allows you to work on the oscillator circuit (after the mains is disconnected!). The circuit also shows the remote connection (EXT), which can be used to connect the strobe to the lighting panel. Any suitable connector may be used for this (e.g. a phone jack, Canon XLR, DIN, etc). Use of a dual 7.5 V winding is suggested, and no regulator is required. This will give about 10V DC to power the oscillator. Capacitors in this circuit need only be rated at between 15V and 25V (i.e. whatever you can get cheaply.
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Figure 2 - Remote and Internal Isolated Trigger Circuit Note that the arrangement shown for the oscillator is critical in one respect. The output pulse (which triggers the opto coupler and hence the SCR) must be of very short duration. With the values shown, it is about 20us, and this should normally be quite alright. You can reduce the on time by reducing the value of R9 (1k as shown). The minimum suggested value is 100 ohms, giving a pulse duration of 2us. The pulse must be gone by the time the trigger transformer current falls to zero, otherwise the MOC3020 and SCR may/will not be able to turn off.
It is critically important that the entire oscillator circuit (including the pot used to control the internal oscillator) is properly insulated to prevent accidental contact with the mains. The pot, remote input connector, the bodies of all or any switch and all exposed metalwork (including the strobe reflector) must be connected to safety earth via a 3-core mains cable.
This latter point cannot be stressed enough! The strobe circuit is dangerous, and the internal wiring can kill you on contact. Given the opportunity it WILL kill you on contact! Every safety precaution must be taken to ensure that you do not cause injury or death to yourself or anyone else.